Maytag appliance repair in Laval & Longueuil.

F21 or Ld — draining too slowly — a clogged pump, filter or drain hose the machine can't push water through

Sd — far too many suds — heavy over-sudsing or a partial drain block the washer keeps re-rinsing against

F5E2 — lid won't lock on a Bravos — a failed lid-lock latch or switch that stops the cycle before it starts

uL — load thrown off balance on the spin — tired suspension rods or a worn balance ring letting the basket wobble

F7E1 — basket won't drive — a failing drive motor or a shift actuator that won't engage the transmission

Water fills and drains but nothing agitates — a worn splutch or shift actuator on Bravos top-loaders

Tumbles but stays cold — a burned-out element or an open thermal fuse on electric models

Loads taking two cycles to dry — a lint-choked vent or blower slowing the airflow right down

Warms up then cuts the heat early — a cycling or high-limit thermostat opening too soon

Motor hums but the drum sits still — a stretched or snapped belt, or a frozen idler pulley

PF flashing after a power blip — a dropped supply or a loose plug at the control board

Nothing lights up and it won't start — an open thermal fuse or a dead control board

Standing water that won't clear — a blocked pump, hose or a stuck check valve trapping water in the tub

Dishes coming out cold and wet — a failed heating element or an open high-limit thermostat

Won't start, just blinks a code — a bad door-latch switch or a control-board fault

Weak wash with food left behind — a jammed chopper, a tired wash pump or a blocked spray arm

Water on the floor or an overfill — a leaking inlet valve or a stuck float switch

Quits partway through the program — a drifting thermistor or a control fault stopping the cycle

A coil or radiant element that won't warm — a burned element, a bad switch or a scorched receptacle block

Gas burner clicking but never lighting — a worn igniter, a bad spark module or a food-clogged cap

Burner stuck blasting on high — an infinite switch welded shut with no control left

Surface controls that do nothing — a failed switch or a broken wiring connection

An F-code on the range display — a control-board or sensor fault

The whole cooktop is dead — a blown fuse or a failed control board

Slow to preheat or no heat at all — a bake or convection element gone open-circuit

F1 or F3 flashing on the panel — the oven temperature sensor or its wiring out of range

Baking too hot or too cool — sensor drift or a board that's lost its calibration

Door staying locked after a clean cycle — a self-clean latch motor seized in the locked position

Convection fan grinding or silent — a worn fan bearing or a burned-out motor

Oven quitting in the middle of baking — a tripping cut-off or a failing control relay